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The
Lower Murray
More
than a hundred million years ago a great river was born.
Settlers carved a niche out of semi arid country against the
incredible odds that had to be surmounted last century.
No ordinary people could have survived the trials and
tribulations of nature and market forces over the years.
Mark Twain compared it favourably with the Mississippi
River when he visited late in the 1890s.
And indeed, a decade or two before he came, it seemed as if
the Murray might well become another Mississippi.
Paddle
steamers plied its full length, carrying wool, wheat and goods to
and from the settlements along the Murray’s banks, sometimes as
far as the Darling Junction. But little by little, the railway took away the business, and
the river never quite made it as a highway of trade. Then came irrigation, introduced to the Riverland in 1887 by
Canadian George Chaffey, it transformed the northern section of
the Murray into a lush paradise.
First
Renmark appeared, followed by community-based settlements at Pyap,
Lyrup, Berri, Barmera, Loxton and Waikerie.
Soon the Riverland had become South Australia’s Orchard,
it remains that today. Today the Murray meanders through South Australia’s
heartland to the sea giving its modern day explorers unforgettable
encounters with abundant wildlife, historic towns, rich vineyards
and orchards. The
Murray River flows 650km through South Australia, and is tapped to
provide domestic water to Adelaide and country towns as far away
as Whyalla and Woomera.
My
story will begin from Mannum, S.A. where I lived for some time in
the 1980’s. While
living here I had a job with Commercial Motor Vehicles at Regency
Park a northern suburb of Adelaide and travelled daily to and from
work. Mannum has a
population of approx 2050 and is 84km east of Adelaide.
The name comes from the aboriginal name Manyum or Manump. And is situated on the broad reaches of the Lower Murray and
is easy accessible by road, either along the South Eastern Freeway
from Adelaide and through Murray Bridge (110km) or through the
scenic routes through Gumeracha (Very large wooden Rocking Horse
here) and Birdwood, or Gawler, Williamstown and Mt Pleasant.
This
easy accessibility makes Mannum one of the most popular day trip
venues in South Australia, and with its natural beauty, unique
history and heritage, the area offers visitors the opportunity to
relax in a pleasant friendly environment.
There are many historical sights to visit throughout the
town and surrounding areas. For
example, the paddle steamer P.S. Marion, a restored and heritage
listed vessel, is open for inspection daily and public cruises are
available at specific times.
The Noa-No landing, only minutes from Mannum is a historic
landmark and has an on-site recording of its significance.
It was here in 1853 that William Randell launched his
Paddle Steamer “Mary Ann” and in doing so, opened up one of
the most romantic areas in the history of Australia. The Mary Ann was the first paddle steamer on the Murray River
in South Australia. The
boiler of this historic vessel is currently preserved and on
display, in The Mary Ann Reserve which provides the ideal location
for picnics with its open lawn areas, on-site barbecues, boat ramp
and kiosk.
Randell
transferred his operations from Noa-No to the present site of
Mannum during 1853 when he built a wharf, goods shed and cottage,
and from this small beginning, the present township evolved.
The river trade opened up a transport network for goods and
services along the entire river system, and in 1877 David and John
Shearer established a blacksmith and implement business in Mannum
and used the River system to market their range of Agricultural
products. This
Company (now Horwood Bagshaw Ltd) remains today, the mainstay of
Mannum’s economy. The
rural areas of Mannum were, until the early 1870’s, controlled
by pastoralists who ran large cattle stations.
However, in the period 1872 to 1883 many new farmers,
principally of German stock, settled the land to grow cereals and
for sheep production. These
settlers provided the town the economic boost required for
development, and trades persons, butchers, bakers, banks and other
services established businesses to swell the population to
approximately 770 in the early 1880’s.
In
1884 residents and horses of Mannum were startled by the
appearance of a puffing, clattering horseless carriage making its
way at the pace of a hand gallop along the main street.
A
rare sight anywhere in the world, the horseless carriage was then
regarded as little more than a novelty, only a handful of far
sighted people seeing it as a coming revolution in transport.
Among
them was Henry Ford, but the vehicle that so amazed the
inhabitants of Mannum pre dated his efforts by ten years.
Mannum, therefore, can justly claim to be one of the first
automobile manufacturing centres of the world.
Designed and built by David Shearer.
Unfortunately
for himself and his country, David Shearer’s sole aim had been
to prove that the horseless carriage was a workable proposition,
and with that accomplished he turned his attention to the
manufacturing of farm machinery.
This rich and unique heritage has provided Mannum with the
opportunity to become known as the “Birthplace of the Murray
River Paddle Steamers.”
The
town provides a host of convenient services and recreation
facilities. And look no further for your shopping needs, Mannum
has a large range of craft shops, take-away food outlets,
supermarket, chemist, delicatessens and coffee shops. The sporting facilities are excellent, with clubs and venues
providing bowls, tennis, golf and a range of activities at the
Mannum Community Centre (including a gym), not to mention the
ample water sport possibilities.
But
to get away from it all and get back to nature, a visit to the
Mannum Waterfalls Reserve. This geological phenomenon, with large granite outcrops
rising from the plains around Reedy Creek, provides a beautiful
natural waterfall, and is located only 9km from Mannum along the
Murray Bridge road. Some
of the most scenic drives along the Murray are found in the
vicinity of Mannum. Follow
the Purnong Road and take in the river lagoons which provide a
home and breeding ground for many species of native bird-life, or
visit the scenic lookout at the northern extremity of the town
(photos), which is 200 metres above the river valley and provides
visitors with an uninterrupted 6km panorama of the River Murray
Valley and the Mannum township.
There is another way to take in the beautiful Murray River
scenery at your own pace and that is on a houseboat.
Mannum
has perhaps the best cruising waters on the entire Murray system
and so has many hire boats moored in the area. Taking a houseboat is the ideal way to take in the beautiful
river bank scenery as it changes from willow lined banks to mighty
cliffs then back to magnificent gum tree lined banks and natural
scenery. For all
there is to see and do, it’s an ideal place to spend some time.
Mannum has three caravan parks located in and around the
township. A motel
with a range of units, full restaurant and convention facilities
are also conveniently located.
And for something a little more romantic, there are five
bed and breakfasts to cater for your individual style.
There is plenty of Houseboats available ranging from 2-12
berth.
Whilst
in Mannum I will mention the Restored PS
Marion Experience.
The
Paddle Steamer Marion is unique, she is the only vessel of her
type left in the world today, and she belongs to the community of
Mannum, and in turn to the people of South Australia.
Her
restoration now complete, Marion is capable of surviving for
another 100 years. We
say another 100 years because this year Marion celebrates her
centenary. What an
achievement.
Six
years ago and many tens of thousands of voluntary hours of labour
later, estimated to be in excess of $500,000 in value, who would
have believed that this icon of Australian River history would be
back on the Murray River as a passenger carrying vessel, able to
accommodate 30 people overnight, carry 100 cruise passengers,
structurally sound and in full survey. By design and deliberate
intent Marion will not be over exposed nor will she be overworked.
The Mannum Dock Museum Board has been entrusted with the
task of operating Marion in such a way that she will be able to
fund her own maintenance, which is expensive, without compromising
the essence of “The Conservation Plan” that dictates Marion
should still be operating in 100 years time for the benefit and
enjoyment of future generations.
The
chance travel on the Marion should be considered as an Experience
to be remembered and revered; not just a boat trip on the River.
Unlike most boats available for such excursions, Marion is
indeed very different. Prior
to cruising, usually 24 hours beforehand, the work begins
preparing her to “steam up”.
The
wood for the boiler needs to be collected, cut and stowed aboard;
the fire lit and steam generated in plenty of time to ensure
proper performance. It’s not just a matter of hitting a starter switch and
getting instant response from a modern diesel motor or two, this
is a labour intensive program
And
this is the legacy of what Marion represents.
Marion is exactly what she is intended to be.
A faithfully restored original piece of Australian history,
a natural treasure to be treated with the care she richly deserves
and to be shared by all. Overnight
guests are advised that there are no ensuite facilities or
air-conditioning on board.
Although
Marion is run on 100% voluntary labour the associated running
costs are quite horrific. In
the event that extensive repair is required, it is imperative that
there be sufficient funds available to carry out this work. The project is not supported by external funding, and Marion
must pay her own way in regards to repairs and maintenance.
For example major boiler repairs can cost almost $100,000.
The
Marion was first registered in Sydney in 1900 and registration
transferred to Adelaide in 1928.
Length 107’ 11”, Beam 27’ 7”, Depth of hull 5’
3”.
Today
the PS Murray River Princess a rear wheeler makes regular trips up
and down the river from Mannum.
Leaving
Mannum we are now traveling down the Murray River and pass the
small towns of Caloote and Wall Flat on the starboard side and
Pompoota on the port side before coming to Mypolonga to starboard,
and then its onto Murray Bridge, with a population of
approximately 13,500. Murray
Bridge was previously known as Edwards Crossing where sheep and
cattle were swum across the river prior to the building of the
bridge. All the
willows and pepper trees are introduced species.
The area bordered by the railway yards and the river was
known to the local Ngarrindjen people as “Pomberuk” and was
one of the last traditional trading camps in the lower Murray
area. Long Island is
a spiritual place to the Ngarrindjen representing a lentlin
(spear) thrown by Ngurunden at Ponde (the fish) as it made its way
to Wellington creating the river.
Prior to 1900 dolphins had been seen at Murray Bridge.
Nowhere between Blanchetown and the mouth is the riverbed
above sea level. Hume
Reserve named after Hume Brothers, whose factory was on this site.
They were world leaders in cement pipe construction in the
1920’s.
The
railway working party reached Murray Bridge in 1884 with the first
train arriving on December 26, 1885.
The railway line across the river was placed in the middle
of the Road Bridge. The
foundation stone was laid in November 1873; this was two years
before tenders were called for the Echuca Bridge. The bridge at Echuca in Victoria was completed in December
1878 and opened in the following March.
The Murray Bridge was still the first to span the Murray
River also opening in March 1879 and is over four (4) times the
length of Echuca because it traverses swamplands.
The
Roundhouse adjacent to the bridges, West End was built for the
construction manager and was the first stone building in the area.
During
the construction of the bridge the super structure was
strengthened to cater for the railway.
By 1921 the bridge would carry up to 15 heavy goods trains
per day. Murray
Bridge became the main locomotive depot and administration centre
between Adelaide and the Victorian Border with a large engine shed
and turntable. The
turntable is still in place opposite the grain silos.
The turntable was built in 1883 by the Edgemore Iron Co of
Delaware USA and was installed circa 1884.
A large brick crew barracks replaced the timber building in
1915 the original station was included in the refreshment rooms
and the new railway station was built.
Construction
of the new Railway Bridge commenced in 1924 and was finished
twelve months later. The
Bridge was designed, manufactured and assembled in South
Australia. It is the
largest Rail Bridge still in use in S.A. and is able to take all
the newest heavy locomotives! – FORESIGHT!
The third or eastern span is the longest – 240ft as
against 185ft of the two (2) western spans, resulting in a
different design to maintain the required strength.
The longer span passes over the navigational channel – on
the other side of the river to the wharf – to give clearance
between passing traffic and steamers and barges unloading at the
Murray Bridge Wharf. From
1926 the Murray Bridge division of the SAR was formed with a train
control and administration centre, the largest centre outside
Adelaide until closed in 1993.
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Railway lines were laid to the wharf in 1886.
During 1910 over 35,000 tons of freight was trans-shipped
across the wharf between railway and boats.
On occasions freight transfer resulted in 16 trains leaving
Murray Bridge in the one day.
During the 1920’s and 30’s Murray Bridge became a
popular destination for both local and interstate marketed co-ordinated
Rail/River trips, with the PS Marion being based in Murray Bridge
and also periodically the PS Gem and PS Ruby.
The Rail/River co-ordination was also operated in the
1970’s with newer boats and is sure to happen again.
River
Trade: The Port of Mobilong was declared in July 1886 and was to
become one of the 3 largest in the Murray Darling Basin along with
Morgan and Echuca, leading to the demise of Mannum and Goolwa as
major river ports. The
total length of the two level timber wharf was 620ft (190m) along
with a further 450ft (145m) of sheet piling face to the bank at
deck level totalling over 1070ft (335m) all serviced by two
railway lines along the entire length extending from between the
two bridges downstream. More
than 6 cranes were used at the wharf for the transfer of freight.
In 1813 the area was lit by electricity and the wharf was
equipped with two rail mounted electric wire type cranes.
Before the end of the 1899 up until 1907 the local Church
of England Diocese based its 2 Etona mission boats in Murray
Bridge.
From
circa 1919 to 1940 milk boats were used from the dairies for
delivery to the milk factory which was just down stream from the
wharf, a use believed unique to Murray Bridge. From
circa 1910 to 1940 Murray Bridge was the base for the Government
fleet of over 12 steamers and barges.
During
the 1920s and 1930s more wheat was trans-shipped across the wharf
than any other port in South Australia, except Port Adelaide, and
it was not uncommon to see up to 20 steamers and barges at the
wharf at any one time. Atypical load of grain for a steamer and barge was 8000 bags
of grain. River
trade died out in the early 1940s with the last steamer leaving in
1962, the PS Kookaburra.
In
1976 Murray Bridge held the first official paddle steamer race in
South Australia this century (1999), when the PS Enterprise, PS
Oscar W and MV Coonawarra raced for the William Randell Cup.
The restoration of the Oscar W undertaken at Murray Bridge
and subsequently at Goolwa was the forerunner in the state to
other restoration of genuine paddle steamers.
There are over 9 steamers and barges sunk between Sturt
Reserve and just upstream from the bridges.
The depth of the river varies from 25ft (8m) to 60ft (18m).
Continuing
downstream the river passes beneath and traffic on the Princes
Highway or Highway One travels over the Swanport Bridge, and on to
Tailem Bend with a population of 1600, and is a railway–workshop
town at the junction of the Dukes and Princes Highways and 107kms
from Adelaide. Tailem
Bend has some excellent views across the Murray as the river bends
sharply towards Wellington. 5kms
north of Tailem Bend is Old Tailem Bend Pioneer Village.
We now pass Wellington east on the port side, before
arriving in Wellington on our starboard side, and here we have an
old restored courthouse complex (1864); which includes cells,
stables, post and telegraph office, courtyard and kiosk.
From Wellington the Murray River only has a short distance
before it flows into Lake Alexandrina, which is the largest
permanent freshwater lake in Australia (50,000ha).
Now
well into Lake Alexandrina and getting closer to the mouth, but we
will make a detour as we reach Malcolm Pt; vehicles can leave the
Princes Highway at Ashville 32km from Tailem Bend cross on the
free ferry to Narrung then drive around Lake Albert, and rejoin
the Princes Highway at Meningie a very pleasant drive.
But as we are travelling by boat so we turn to port at
Malcolm Pt and enter the Albert Passage, which leads into Lake
Albert, which is also fresh water.
Ahead we come to the town of Meningie, with a population of
approx 900 and is at the northern tip of the vast saltpans of the
Coorong National Park, 159km from Adelaide.
Over 40 professional fishermen are employed on the lakes
and Coorong; fishing is a significant industry in the town.
The area abounds with birdlife such as ibises, pelicans,
cormorants, ducks and swans.
Sailing, boating, water-skiing and swimming are popular.
We now head back the way we came in and once back in Lake
Alexandrina we turn to port and around past Point McLeay, heading
west passing two points of land, if we continued on one would
think that eventually we would arrive at the mouth of the Murray,
but this is impossible for between the main land to our left and
Tauwitchere Island is a barrage.
There
is another barrage at the other end of Tauwitchere Island and Ewe
Island, with another on the other side of Ewe Island and linking
Mundoo Island with the last, in this area on other side of Mundoo
Island to the eastern end of Hindmarsh Island.
These
barrages prevent salt water entering Lake Alexandrina and they can
be driven on acting as a bridge which link Goolwa in the west to
Meningie (Princes Hwy) across to Coonalpyn (Dukes Hwy) which is
much shorter distance for people on the southern end of the
Fleurieu Peninsula. Beyond
the two large barrages lies The Coorong, derived from an
Aboriginal word karangk meaning narrow neck, is one of the most
breathtaking national parks in Australia.
A long finger of land stretching 145km from the Murray
mouth to Kingston charts the Coorong.
Kingston is the home of “Larry the Big Lobster,” it is
a centre for rock lobster fishing and the annual Lobsterfest held
in 2nd week of January.
And this is the only time that the historic lighthouse
“Cape Jaffa Light House” is activated.
The Coorong, a series of lagoons is separated by the hills
of the Younghusband Peninsula (more commonly known as “The
Hummocks”) from the Southern Ocean, a place of beauty where the
only sounds are those of the sea and the cries of more than 240
species of native birds many that migrate annually from Siberia,
Japan and China.
This
natural sanctuary is a breeding ground for giant pelicans, wild
duck, shags, ibis and terns.
For 6,000 years the home of the Ngarrindjeri people, the
Coorong is of Aboriginal significance and renowned for its
archaeological sites. Perfect
beach fishing, canoeing and yachting, there are beautiful
campsites, often off the main road.
A permit is needed for camping.
All attractions are accessible by walking tracks, bush
trails or 4Wd marked tracks. “Storm Boy” a film about a young boy’s friendship with
a pelican, and based on a novel by Colin Thiele was shot on the
Coorong.
As
we are heading for the mouth of the Murray we must continue by
water in a north west direction and leave Reedy Island behind us
to port and with Long Island to port and the main land to
starboard we enter a narrow passage which takes us past many small
islands between Long Island and the eastern end of Hindmarsh
Island. Hindmarsh
Island is the largest of the islands in Lake Alexandria and are
all to port of us. We now pass Clayton to our starboard which is on the
mainland, and shortly after we enter the Goolwa River before tying
up at the wharf on the starboard side in Goolwa.
Stepping off our boat we are on a wharf which has a
computerised display of the river and district before European
settlement, and the impact of development.
Leaving
the wharf we cross railway lines and a road before coming to a
very impressive building which is Signal Point Murray River
Interpretive Centre, which has all the information that the
visitor to Goolwa requires, including a cafe with terrific views
of the river, the pelicans and gulls as they dive for food, the
comings and goings of the paddlewheeler Mundoo and the motor
vessel Aroona and if one is really lucky they may see the `The
Cockle Train’. This
is a steam train restored from the original line, and runs to and
from Victor Harbour, and what a breath taking journey this is,
leaving Goolwa one may get a glimpse of the ocean, but from
Middleton, through Port Elliot and into Victor Harbour the line
runs very close to the banks of Encounter Bay and the Southern
Ocean. Port Elliot
has a very nice caravan park, a bowling green, a safe swimming
beach, a kiosk and a life saving club all around Encounter Bay.
Goolwa
has a population of just over 3000, is 83km south of Adelaide and
19km from Victor Harbour and 16km from the mouth of the Murray.
Australia’s first public railway, horse drawn, was opened
in 1854 to connect with the Murray steamboat system, thus
connecting river traffic at Goolwa with the ocean port of Port
Elliot. This was
Australia’s first example of an integrated transport system.
Goolwa
Maritime Gallery: It was in 1988 that Goolwa locals, Chris
& Jude Crabtree, put an application into the local Council to
establish a maritime gallery on the river upstream from the Goolwa
Wharf. Five years
later they built the jetty and purchased a WWII ammunition barge,
which would be restored to become the floating gallery for
maritime art. They
had obtained the Richmond River tug boat `LEO’ (circa 1882) in
1991 which since has been totally renovated together with the
Victorian line boat `TOFUA’ (circa 1911).
While
investing in the infra structure they were also collecting art
chandlery and maritime memorabilia both in Australia & Europe.
Their interest and promotion in Goolwa’s river history is
well known and includes the photographic exhibition “GOOLWA
& WOODEN BOATS – the passion’, which is used not only to
promote Goolwa, but more specifically as a focus for The Goolwa
Wooden Boat Festivals, (an experience not to be missed).
In 1992 Chris applied to lease the Chart Room, the last
remaining structure of what was Graham’s Patent Slipway and
Foundry, which operated in the 1800’s and was reputed to be the
only location on the Murray-Darling system where paddle steamers
were totally assembled including steam engines.
The building had been neglected for years and was last used
by the PS Murray River Queen as a cruise provision store.
The building has now been basically restored and is the
core of the new gallery, housing maritime artefacts, ship models,
chandlery etc, as well as featuring a stunning blowup of the
building & slipway circa 1925 courtesy of the Mortlock
Library.
Part
of the investment in the gallery’s future was the purchasing of
the PS Capt Sturt for demolition and the restoration of
`Hector’s Shed’ – the land base for one of Goolwa’s well
known Lakes & Coorong fishing identities.
This has enabled the gallery to commission furniture and
boat models using recycled material from the historic American
1911 stern wheeler as well as being able to create a display which
celebrates the vessels importance in the Murray’s past.
This
new complex, reflecting the art & history of maritime
involvement is SA and the South Coast in particular, is a unique
addition to the tourist attractions of the region.
The Goolwa Maritime Gallery consists of two land-based
buildings and three water based vessels.
It is located just upstream from the Goolwa Wharf.
>>
Photos of the River Murray
>>
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River Murray Screen Savers & More
>>
Download Paddle Steamer Video
Captain
P.S. Sturt: This famous Murray River stern wheeler based on
the Mississippi steamers, she was built in Cincinnati, Ohio USA.
Imported to South Australia during 1915 in sections &
it was assembled at Mannum. Used
by the River Murray Commission to build locks and the barrages
using barges, which were pushed rather than towed in the normal
manner. She finally
came to rest on the bottom at Goolwa in 1940 after acting as the
barrage steam plant; it is estimated the vessel moved 220,000 tons
of material during her working life.
Construction: steel hull & timber super structure,
135’ x 27.5’ x 3.3’ draft fitted with 200hp steam engine
giving max speed to 10 knots.
We
will require a vehicle to board the ferry so we can visit
Hindmarsh Island. A
river-bound island adjacent to Goolwa, reached by a free, 24-hour
vehicle ferry. It
offers visitors the chance to drive to the point opposite where
the Murray River finally enters the Southern Ocean.
Marsh land offers good aquatic bird habitats and the island
is popular with bird watchers.
Local Ngarrindjeri people have particular attachment to
parts of the island.
Captain
Charles Sturt used Hindmarsh Island as the
highest point to locate the Murray Mouth on his epic journey down
the River Murray in 1830. However
it was named after Governor Hindmarsh in 1837 when the area was
mapped. In 1853 Dr
Rankins leased the island for grazing and in 1854 Charles Price
came to the island with Shropshire sheep and Hereford cattle,
being the first to introduce these breeds to South Australia.
The
island is approximately 15kms long, 6kms wide and with a
population of 400 it is unique as it faces fresh water on one side
and salt water on the other.
The remnants of a small cheese factory, flour mill,
schoolteacher’s residence and school (still used as a community
hall) can be found on the island.
-
Goolwa-Hindmarsh
Island Ferry; a 24hr, free service.
2.
Hindmarsh Island Caravan Park; cabins, vans etc, heated
pool, BBQ,
kiosk, ice, LPG, licensed bottle shop, moped hire.
3.
Narru Park Homestead; was the home of John Kennedy Oswald.
It has been renovated and is now a B & B accommodating up to
10 people.
4.
Narru Farm: Historic cottages, bunk house & cabins to
accommodate from 2 adults to group bookings.
Horse riding, farm animals, milking cows, ½ court tennis,
and paddle boats.
5.
`Rankines Landing’ (in The Marina Hindmarsh Island);
Waterfront tavern & restaurant, bottle shop, gaming room –
open 7 days for lunch and dinner for meals and light snacks.
6.
The Marina Hindmarsh Island: Boat ramps, wetberths,
drystanding, yacht, cruiser and runabout hire, boats for sale,
dockside fuel, ice, deli, public telephone, LPG, video hire.
7.
The Marina Hindmarsh Island Barrage Lookout – no passage
through the barrage.
8.
Narineri (University of SA Magill Campus)
9.
Monument to Captain Charles Sturt & Collett Barker; an
information board about the island and extensive views.
10.
Sturt Farm;
1853 – Pioneer Charles Price was famous throughout Australia for
his stock. Now a
superb
-Heritage
style B&B.
11.
Polish
Memorial and camp (memorial to polish prisoners of war).
12.
Hindmarsh
Island Cemetery – resting place of many early settlers.
13.
Old School
House (Public Telephone).
14.
Trig Point
with spectacular 360 degree views.
15.
Sugars Beach
– boat ramp, fishing and public toilets.
16.
Sugars Beach
Lookout; lookout over the Murray Mouth.
17.
Entrance to
the Coorong National Park.
18.
Mouth of the
River Murray.
19.
Mundoo Channel Shacks.
There
is no passage or public access through the barrages from Hindmarsh
Island.
Someone
decided that it would be great for the Island if there was a
bridge
instead of the ferry to and from the Island.
But as many of us would know it wasn’t to be as simple as
was expected. There
were a group of aboriginal women who said a bridge would destroy
their tribes (Ngarrindjeri) sacred sites.
And so a confrontation developed between those living and
working on the Island and the aboriginal women.
And
this fight was just about to destroy Tom and Wendy (former mayor
of Adelaide) Chapman we actually lived in one of their houses in
North Adelaide and my ex-wife Sheila did some work for Wendy and
we would go next door some evenings to mind their three children. Tom Chapman had a successful business in North Adelaide,
which is really the exclusive part of Adelaide.
They also owned property in Victor Harbour and several
times we were invited to their holiday home and a farm just out of
Victor Harbour. I
guess, (don’t really know) that when Tom retired and the
children finished school, Tom and Wendy decided to build a Marina
on Hindmarsh Island. But
with the mention of a bridge this would prove to be very costly
for the Chapman family.
For
as the case dragged through the courts they had to sell off their
properties to fund their part of the case, in fact they had to
sell all their homes and property, which bankrupted them.
The
family was renting a house on the Island when after at least five
government inquiries and four court cases resulted in the go-ahead
for a bridge, in the face of strong opposition from a group of
Ngarrindjeri women. Work
started on the new bridge on 5th October 1999.
A Tavern has been built near to the Marina and after a
tough day sailing crews can hit the tavern and drink or eat to
their hearts content. While I was checking out the net for
information on this talk, I found that the two eldest Chapman
children have got a boat business, selling, buying and hiring
boats, so I guess the family will be slowly getting back on their
feet. Driving to the southeast corner of the Island one gets a
great view, as we are only metres from the Mouth of the Mighty
Murray River.
Retracing
our steps we are back on the ferry and soon will be back on the
mainland, where we decide to have afternoon tea or just something
to eat. So our party
heads for one of the many picnic tables and seats strewn along the
waters edge. The grass area where the tables are located beside
the road is well kept which is great for the ducks that come to
visit you once you set out your food; it is so peaceful here as
you watch the ferry on its back and forward run across to the
island, PS Mundoo is moving past us with her decks lined with
people as she heads for Lake Alexandrina; and the MV Aroona is
still tied to the wharf. Of
course there are other types of boats on the water and the bird
life both beside you and on the water, too much activity to get
bored. Walking along
the wharf towards MV Aroona we come across a large number of
pelicans in the water, and a man is throwing fish to them, we
found out that he is there in the morning and afternoon and the
birds start to arrive minutes before so you can set your watch to
their feeding time.
We
can now go aboard the MV Aroona and join those already on board
for our trip to the mouth. A few more passengers come aboard and the gangplank is lifted
out of the way, toots on the whistle, the lines are cast off and
slowly we move away from the wharf.
Once away from the wharf the skipper turns to starboard and
we head east, and it is really ideal sitting in the sun with the
wind blowing through your hair.
The skipper announces that to port can be seen the Marina
and the Tavern on Hindmarsh Island, and all eyes turn to the left.
Someone in the bow says that there is something up ahead
which look like a wall, and how will we get past it.
Of course it is the Barrages, desalination points that
prevent salt water from reaching the Murray.
All on board are now looking ahead and the Aroona is
heading for two markers; the one to the left or port is green and
is in the shape of an upside down triangle; and on the right or
starboard there is a red square, these markers mark the entrance
to the lock. As we
approach the lock we notice what looks like a solid gate sliding
to port of course this is to let the Aroona enter the lock.
And
what a tight fit this is as we make our way into the centre of the
lock, and then the gate behind us closes; when it is shut the one
in front is opening, and we can see on the port side a man in a
glassed in room operating the controls.
As we wait for the other gate to open we are welcomed by
about four pelicans and they are huge; with the gate now open we
pass through and are on our way as the gate closes behind us, and
the birds take off from the water like huge aircraft and are soon
out of sight. We have
only been going for about five minutes when to starboard there are
hundreds of birds of all shapes and sizes in the water and on the
sand, also we can see an odd hut or house amongst the dunes, as we
are now near the mouth.
The
skipper continues on to the other side of the mouth as we enter
the Coorong with the giant sand dunes and once again an odd hut or
house. These are for the fishermen and their families although
years ago it was like a little community here, but the government
frowns on this type of living now.
The bird life was just unbelievable with so many diving for
and coming up with fish in their beaks it was truly a wonderful
sight. We turned
around and made our way back to the Barrage and through the lock
once again, and this is really fascinating for those going through
a lock for the first time.
Whilst
in the lock we had a very good view of this barrage and noticed
the structure of it, with very large timber blocks which I guess
would be at least six feet high with portion of them fitting into
the bed of the lake and butted together if their purpose was to
stop the salt water entering the lake and river. Also noticeable
on both sides of the lock running along the top of the blocks two
sets of steel rails; one set inside the other, more on this later.
Soon we were back at the wharf, after a very interesting
boat ride. Back in our car we leave the wharf and drive through
part of the town, as we want to travel in same direction as we
have just done on the water and we pass a yacht club and shops
with surf boards, fishing gear and even jet ski’s for hire.
It
is easy to see that Goolwa once a key port in the golden days of
the riverboats, the area still has a strong tradition of
shipbuilding, trade and fishing; today, the lakes area is ideal
for boating, fishing and aquatic sports and popular with
bird-watchers and photographers.
We come to a part where a track goes off to the right and I
would guess one would get to the mouth on the sand, but we are
continuing on and finally come to a parking area to our left.
Parking
the car we alight, as from here on it is on foot, as we approach
two brick pillars of the gate and a picket fence goes off on each
side of a pillar. Stepping
through the gate we are now on government property, with
beautifully kept lawns, gardens and fountains with water flowing
and water lily’s growing in the water.
On our right are two houses and on the right the lawn goes
right to the waters edge and the roadway is bitumen.
Further
along we see a very fat sheep tethered on the lawn, a pet I guess.
Still further along a very large workshop on the right with
steel rails entering it, another building this time it is toilets
with a smaller building which may act as an office with a grape
vine covering the outside of the building.
Just beyond this building we have one more building with
steel rails entering it, it is much smaller than the workshop and
appears just large enough to hold one piece of equipment.
This building and the rails leading from it are directly in
line with the barrage and about thirty feet from the front of the
building the rails from the large workshop join up with the ones
from this shed; we are now beside a very large stack of concrete
blocks and for awhile wonder what they are for, we begin to walk
along the barrage to the right of the rails along a footpath.
Several pelicans are diving for fish as we walk towards the
lock.
I
have visited this site about 8 times and as yet I have never seen
a boat enter or leave the lock and this looked as though I was not
to see happen. So we
turn around and begin our walk back to the mainland, and had gone
about half way when we see two men walking towards us, it is the
workers from this establishment, and the younger of the two said
there is a boat approaching, and we turn around and follow them.
We notice there are more people making their way along the
barrage, so there will be an audience to witness this event.
When we get to the lock we can see a small motor launch
approaching; the younger of the workmen is now in the glassed in
room on the opposite side of the lock to us.
Of course he operates the opening and closing of the gates
for the boats. The small boat is now in the lock and has cut its engine and
a person on the boat grabs a rope, which is hanging into the lock
and pulls the boat towards the gate, which is opening as the other
closes.
On
board this boat is a man and a lady and a golden Labrador dog and
they have been fishing, and shortly after the lock is empty and
all is back to normal. While
this was going on we had only seen one of the two men, the one
operating the gates of the lock.
He comes to our side of the lock and starts to walk back to
the land and slowly we follow, but he hadn’t gone very far when
he turns and returns, but before he crosses the lock he bends down
and flicks the dangling rope on this side up on top of the lock,
then he crosses over and does the same to the rope on the other
side, then he enters the glassed in room.
We are intrigued by this event and wonder why?
Looking towards the Coorong we can see a larger boat
approaching and someone says it’s the Aroona, so it is certainly
our lucky day, and soon the mystery of the two ropes are revealed.
With the gate open the MS Aroona enters the lock and it is
a very tight fit for the boat, if the ropes which I would estimate
to be 1” in diameter then this boat would not be able to enter
the lock.
The
boat was just moving and as the back gate closes the front one
opens and the boat is through and soon the lock is back to normal
once again. We stop a while and notice the man moves from the room
to a pedestal which is to the left of the glass room, he is doing
something on the pedestal and slowly the decking he is standing on
starts to move towards the lock, and we notice two sets of rails
on this decking and eventually the decking comes to a stop as the
rails on the decking line up with the rails on our side and the
other side of the lock. We then hear a whistle and looking towards Hindmarsh Island
we can see a big blue giant approaching; as it gets closer we
notice it is a Kato mobile crane and it is towing a flat top
truck. And another mystery is solved, that of the two sets of rails.
The crane is now over and heading for the mainland and the
other man returns everything back to where it was and he leaves
his side and crosses to our side. One of the visitors asked him what the crane does and another
mystery was solved, that of the huge concrete blocks near the
shed.
The
barrage was originally constructed of wooden blocks which over
time have began to rot or be eaten out with Toledo Grubs and all
are being replaced with concrete. And it is a very slow job as the bolts have to be removed and
then the rails, the old wooden block then replaced with a concrete
one. With this
barrage being 680 metres long from the mainland to Hindmarsh
Island the job will take some time to complete.
The man operating the crane has had that job since leaving
school and he retired shortly after I was there, so what a job
that would have been driving and operating this toy all your
working life. I would
guess there would have been other workers besides these two that I
saw. The small shed
directly in line with the barrage is where the Kato is housed.
It was really a great day with so much to see and as always
one has to be in the right spot at the right time to witness
certain things in life, and to have captured it on film was a
bonus, and really made my second last trip to Adelaide and South
Australia worth while.
Talking
to local Adelaide people later who visit this sight regularly
hoping to catch a boat going through the lock, and have not as yet
seen one, is all the more enjoyable. We eventually made our way
back to the car and back to Victor Harbour and the Caravan Park
where I was staying.
Author: Vic Forrest
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